The Other View

                            A  Western Retreat  


                                                                                By Cameron Mitchell

Gazing down from the emerald cliffs of Slieve League, the Atlantic gateway to the rugged and mountainous peninsula of Southwest Donegal, a bird captivates my interest as it gracefully returns home for summer habitation.
I begin to imagine that while on its long southern flight across the picturesque coastlines of Galway and into Yeat's county there are temptations of an early descent. Impelled by its cherished memories of the wild and magnificent Highlands of Ireland the bird proceeds with the homeward journey.

Donegal, or Dun n nGall, translates from the early Irish tongue as 'the fort of the foreigner', in recognition of the Norse Vikings who settled here in the ninth century. Across the rare blanket boglands lie tomb monuments left by pre-Christian farmers surrounded by the ruins of ancient castles built by Irish Kings. Evidence that throughout the history of this rich natural county many have sought Donegal for safe dwelling.
Secluded and of supreme natural beauty, Donegal offers many travellers solitude and tranquillity. This abundantly rich and popular Ulster county is host of the most spectacular headlands, precipitous cliffs, windswept peninsulas and golden sheltered beaches that rival any in Europe.
In this enchanting part of Ireland you are greeted with clear air that conveys a wondrous lingering light, a light most ambrosial when the warm evening sun sets into the silhouetted horizon. As you draw your first breath you know that you have embarked upon a special place.

Nesting just south of the Donegal Gaeltacht and where the Owentocker River enters the broad waters of Loughros More Bay is the charming fishing town of Ardara, (pronounced Ardrah). The town, renowned for it's colourful tweed and knitwear production, is named after the remains of the fort which crests on the nearby cliffs to the east. It is here in this sleepy village where I have found sanctum, a place of relaxation and meditation, a place of reflection and creativity, sheltered by the timeless hills and verdant meadows of bluebells and dandelions.

I was first invited to Ardara by French philosopher Paul Chatenoud who runs a local bed and breakfast, The Green Gate. Paul came to Ireland to write an essay on life, love and 'all the big issues'. Things change, however, and fourteen years later he's happy to welcome people into his home on a daily basis.

The Green Gate is a quaint place that offers the most amazing views from it's location at the top of several 'first gear' hills. Paul describes these huddle of thatched roof cottages as the 'most unique bed and breakfast in the whole of Ireland'. Charming, basic and quirky, The Green Gate is perfect in its simplicity. The value added features are hot water bottles, huge breakfasts - whenever you want! With wildlife knocking on your window.
As I snuggle up to the log fire, sipping my hot whiskey, the city-life stress evaporates.

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